The Gucci Men’s Prefall 2012 Collection evokes an American aesthetic and channels the world of jazz, film and Aspen’s snow-capped peaks. Creative Director Frida Giannini embraces the iconic style of Chet Baker, a legendary trumpet player and jazz singer, whose appeal was documented through the contemporary lens of Bruce Weber via black and white images. Giannini plays to those images and to Baker’s unique style, epitomized by a contemporary elegance and understatement.
Suits feature body-skimming and small-shouldered jackets, matched with creased, cuffed pants in countless fabrics – micro-textures; wool mohair Prince of Wales; moulinè effects in various shades of grey mélange. Blazers, raincoats and peacoats, meanwhile, use knit-like textiles to resemble soft and comfortable cardigans. The Montgomery layers over sweaters and slim riding pants. Maxi down jackets with a shiny-matte effect, oversized hand-knitted sweaters and jackets with biker or ski details harken back to a winter holiday in Aspen. Lines stand out in a palette of dark brown and spicy tones such as orange, curry and saffron, paired with black, charcoal grey or white -- recalling the chromatic balances of Elizabeth Peyton’s paintings.
An array of knitwear in cashmere, wool, and alpaca enriched with knit-point motifs, including Peruvian folk graphics with a felted effect or with suede details. A hint of Johnny Cash’s rock ‘n roll style comes through the shades of black on shearling, stonewashed denim, and leather perfectos. An assortment of vintage-style leather, deerskin, horsehair, washed nappa leather and suede round out the collection.
Black in silk shantung and shiny micro jacquards, alongside tuxedo shirts for a retro night club look. Details such as bowties and contemporary yet classic shoes allude to the muse from the cool jazz movement.
A tactile approach through soft, light accessories that stand for understated luxury. Shopping bags in felt with no lining, square belt buckles, and leather sneakers create a relaxed, smart style. The four-wheel trolley features the iconic Diamante pattern and briefcases use only the softest leather. Printed silks follow the neckline and tuck into sweaters for a subtle yet striking touch of color.